Wide Shoulder and Petit Adjustments

by | Jan 24, 2017 | Clothing, Everything Else, Women | 0 comments

Have you already read my post about trying a Wide Shoulder Adjustment? Well, here is another step in fitting my wide shoulders.

I took the Wardrobe Builder Tee with a crew neckline (so the shoulders can’t pull out the neckline to increase the width) and widened the shoulder 1 inch using the same method mentioned in the previous Wide Shoulder Adjustment post.  Because I was getting gaping at the neckline, I also squared the shoulders a little. I shorted the length between the shoulder and the bust points because when I moved around in day to day life, the shirt would creep up and create a horizontal wrinkle across my front above the bust from armpit to armpit.  I though it might be because the bust of the pattern was lower than my actual bust.  I don’t really consider myself petit.  I’m probably right on the edge of that definition-just shy of 5’4″. But I think I may have proportionately longer legs and shorter torso.  I’m noticing that shirt patterns tend to be too long on me (my Telluride Top and Hoodie is the only one blogged about right now)-and I like long shirts! But shirts looking like tunics and tunics looking a bit like dresses makes me think my torso is a bit shorter than average.  I took out 3/4 inch based on my measurements and measuring the pattern from shoulder to bust.  I did those last two adjustments at the same time by removing some of the pattern at the shoulders and then re-drawing my own necklines.

I also adjusted the sleeves so the sleeves would match the new armcye.  I did two things.  I slid the pattern off the fold 1/8″, making not only the sleeve cap shorter but the sleeve more slim.  Then I also trimmed the sleeve cap so it was not quite as tall. Sorry, no pictures of that adjustment. The sleeve fit into the armcye well, so I feel like those adjustments worked.

Here’s what I found: It’s the best fit in shirts I’ve had so far when it comes to my shoulder width.  I think the shoulders need to be 1/4-3/8″ wider on each side to completely hit the right place on my shoulders.  But it’s pretty good.  And I’m not getting crazy box shoulders after lifting my arms up. I’m pretty happy wearing it.  But I’d still like to see if I can iron out some of these wrinkles…;)
In these pictures I’m getting a pretty large wrinkle from my armpit to my neckline on my right side.  Part of it may be because when I calculated my neckband, I used 70% of the neckline instead of 80% on the neckline.  And then I think it got attached slightly unevenly so there is a bit of pulling on that side.  My pose may also be making it more pronounced because I don’t notice it as much during the day. But it seems to really stand out in these pictures. Kathleen Fasanella from Fashion Incubator says these kind of wrinkles are because the armhole is too high.  I take this to mean that the armcye needs to be longer, which is partially undoing one of the adjustments I did-to remove the horizontal wrinkle.  Plus, I like feeling the fabric close to my armpit-I do not like feeling bagginess around my armpit and upper arm.  And the back looks really good across the shoulders…Maybe it’s just more pronounced wrinkles of the kind I talk about next? Made worse by so pulling from a slightly too tight neckband?

Next, there are also some wrinkles from my armpit out to right above my bust-sometimes bust.  (These can be see in the large picture up top) My internet research tells me these wrinkles are because my bust is larger than the pattern is drafted for and require a FBA (Full Bust Adjustment).  This confuses me because when I measure my high bust and my full bust, there is between 1 and 2 inches difference-not enough that I should need an FBA, right? I’m still well in the ‘B’ cup range.  My other thought is that instead of a FBA the wrinkles are caused by needing more scoop in the armcye.

So what do I do next? I’ll make another with the same adjustments but measure my neckband correctly and get it put in more evenly.  When I’m doing the adjustment for the wrinkle above the bust I will make a fold in the pattern where the wrinkle is instead of taking out that length from the top.  Then I hopefully will not mess up other things like the neckline and the WSA I made.  Maybe I will try scooping the bottom of the front armcye at bit more too.  I may be overly picky about this fit because it is already improved from my first shirts, but I’d love some advice from those with more fitting experience!  Please leave a comment and help me out!