How to Sew a Continuous Bound Placket
Recently I made my daughter a character skirt for her ballet class. The skirt needed to be a circle skirt out of a stiff twill with a smooth waistband–not an elastic waistband. Which means I needed to make a continuous boundary placket and its pretty cool! A continuous bound placket is an opening in the top of the skirt where the waistband attaches so the skirt can slide over hips and shoulder and heads and such. You can use it on circle skirts, gathered skirts, dresses, wrist openings and probably a bunch of other places. Might be pretty useful for some of those Holiday skirts and dresses on the sewing list!
Here’s how I made my continuous bound placket. You’ll need your skirt/fabric and a 2 inch by 14.5 inch rectangle. (The length you need may change depending on how long of a placket you need. Also-the rectangle should probably be on the bias-I just didn’t do it.)
Cut a straight line into the circle skirt 7 inches from the waist opening.
Take the two sides of the cut and open them so they make a straight line.
Position the 2 inch rectangle along the edge of the cut. Mark the center of the rectangle where it meets the bottom of where you cut.
Sew from waist opening to waist opening across the straight line. Start out sewing with 1/4” seam allowance, then taper the seam allowance smaller so by the time you reach the center pin the seam allowance is one or two needle widths. Very small. After the center pin, taper back out to the original 1/4” seam allowance.
Iron the 2 inch rectangle towards the seam allowance. Iron the opposite edge of the rectangle under by 1/4 inch. Then iron the rectangle in half so the all the seam allowances are tucked inside the fold.
Stitch along the open edge, enclosing all the seam allowances inside the placket. Close the skirt opening. It should make the rectangle fold on itself like a hamburger and the opening should be almost invisible.
On the side of the opening that overlaps on top of the other side, stitch through the skirt and the placket you just made from the waist opening down to about 3/4” before the bottom of the cut you made.
Then angle to the bottom of the opening and sew diagonally to the opening. You’ll sew through one layer of skirt and all the placket layers.
Alternately, you can just turn the skirt inside out and sew diagonally through the bottom of all layers of the placket only. You won’t sew the placket to the front of the skirt at all so you don’t see the line of stitching down the length of the placket. This method give the absolute least amount of placket visibility. I just happened to do it the other way for this skirt.
Trim the placket at the top even with the waist. Attach the waistband in your favorite method!