Eleonore Pull on Jeans Muslin
Sew Altered Style is a new blog, instagram, and facebook group dedicated to helping gals like me make great fitting clothes. Which is perfect because I’ve got several items in my #2018makenine that need to be fitted well. Namely my Eleonore Pull-on Jeans. I wasn’t happy with the fit on my last pair of pants but am determined not to let my last attempt define me. Or my pant making skills. So today I’m sharing my first steps toward making great pants-my Eleonore Pull-on Jeans Muslin.
For this muslin, I’m using stretch denim I bought at Joann’s several moves ago. (Do you like how I’ve moved so much in the last couple years that I’m remembering things in relation to the move and not the year?) Originally I planned to make a pair of pants for Nut#2 and for myself out of them, but we’ll see how far my 3 yards stretches. It has around 2-3% spandex and barely reaches 20% stretch, which is the minimum stretch the pattern recommends.
Because this is a muslin, I have used the longest stitch on my machine, white thread, haven’t finished the edges of my fabric, have left out all topstitching, and am only doing shorts length. I’m making a straight size T since my hip measurements are between an S and T. (Which corresponds to 6 and 8.) Without any adjustments, the pants are just okay.
From the front I’ve got pull lines and can pinch out a fair amount of extra fabric at the crotch. I think I need to shorten the length of the front rise by cutting off some of the front inseam. I probably also need to do a flat pubis adjustment by making the front crotch curve shallower.
From the side, the side seam is pulling slightly to the front around my thighs and I’ve got wrinkles around the back especially under my bum. I’ll try taking a smaller seam allowance on the front outer seam through the thighs to see if the seam goes more straight and the wrinkles improve.
From the back, those wrinkles under my bum are really pulling my attention. (I apologize for the blurry picture…) Hopefully the adjustment around the thighs will fix them. If not I’ll try a low bum adjustment. I didn’t put on the pockets in the name of ‘its a muslin’ (and because I didn’t want to have to thread my machine with jeans thread yet), but now I wish I had so I could see if they are the right size and placed right. Guess I’ll have to pin those on in the next version.
Hopefully these adjustments with fix my fitting issues!